Fancy Mice (Mus musculus)

Mice 
Mus musculus

Mice are social, alert and extremely active small animals.
Mice Facts

average adult size:	3 inches long
average life span:	up to 3 years with proper care
diet:	omnivore

Diet

A well-balanced mouse diet consists of:

• High-quality mouse food or lab blocks and limited amounts of grain, vegetables and fruits.
• Clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water, changed daily.
• Do not feed chocolate, caffeine or alcohol as these can cause serious medical conditions. Avoid sugar and high fat treats.

Feeding

Things to remember when feeding your mouse:

• Fresh food and water should always be available.
• A limited amount of grain, vegetables, fruits or Timothy hay can be given daily but should not exceed 10% of their total diet
• Vegetables and fruits not eaten within 24 hours should be discarded.

Housing

• Mice acclimate well to average household temperatures, not to exceed 80°F; be cautious of extreme temperature changes. The habitat should never be in direct sunlight or in a drafty area.
• Habitat should be plastic, metal or glass and escape-proof with a solid bottom; there should be plenty of room for the mouse to exercise and play. It is best to provide the largest habitat possible.
• 1-2" of bedding should be placed in the habitat; proper bedding includes high quality paper bedding, crumbled paper bedding, or hardwood shavings. Cedar-based products are not recommended.
• Mice can be kept in same-sex pairs that have been raised together. Different types of small animals should not be housed together.

Normal Behavior

• Play during the night and rest during the day (nocturnal) but can adjust to your schedule.
• Very curious, like to burrow, hide in objects and play; easily frightened by loud noises.
• Chew on objects to maintain incisor teeth, which grow continuously; ensure they have plenty of wood chew sticks or mineral chews.

Habitat Maintenance

• Clean and disinfect the habitat and its contents at least once a week with a 3% bleach solution. Rinse and allow to dry completely before placing the mouse back into the habitat.
• Remove wet spots daily; change bedding at least once a week, or more often as necessary.

Grooming & Hygiene

• Mice stay clean and rarely need baths (males have a stronger odor than females), but can be spot-cleaned with a damp washcloth or unscented baby wipes if needed.
• It is normal for a mouses's teeth to be yellow; cleaning is not necessary.
• Consult with a veterinarian if a mouses's teeth seem too long.

Health

Signs of a Healthy Animal

• Active, alert, and sociable
• Eats and drinks regularly
• Healthy fur and clear eyes
• Breathing is unlabored
• Walks normally

Red Flags

• weight loss
• abnormal hair loss
• diarrhea or dirty bottom
• distressed breathing
• lethargic
• eye or nasal discharge
• skin lesions
• overgrown teeth

Common Health Issues

Health Issue	Symptoms or Causes	Suggested Action
Diarrhea	Loose stool caused by poor diet, stress, internal parasites, unclean housing, or other illness.	Consult with a veterinarian to determine cause and treatment.
Malocclusion	Overgrown teeth.	Consult with a veterinarian to have teeth trimmed regularly.
Mites	External parasites that cause mice to lose patches of hair.	Consult a veterinarian for treatment.
Tumors	Abnormal lumps.	Consult a veterinarian.

Courtesy: http://www.petco.com/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/caresheets/mice.html

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Sugar Gliders 
     Petaurus breviceps

Sugar gliders are native to Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia and Papua-New Guinea. Their descriptive name comes from their love of sweet foods and a membrane that allows them to glide. Sugar gliders are marsupials which means that they raise their young in a pouch on the mother’s belly. They are small mammals and adults weigh between 4 and 5 ounces.

Sugar gliders have gray fur and a cream colored chest and stomach with a black stripe running the full length of the spine. They have large, hairless ears that move independently of each other and are in constant motion to pick up sounds.

The tail of the sugar glider is used for stability and balance. During gliding it acts as a rudder to control the direction of flight. A membrane of skin reaches from the wrist to the ankle and it is this membrane that gives them the ability to glide.

Sugar Gliders As Pets
Sugar gliders recognize the people that handle them and express affection and displeasure. They are social animals and do better in pairs. Sugar gliders can be very vocal and loud and bark much like a small dog.

Sugar gliders can live up to 15 years in captivity. They do need fresh fruit daily and a reasonably larger cage is necessary for their home. Although they do require some work, sugar gliders can make fun, enjoyable, and loving pets.

Care Sheet

Now that you have decided on a sugar glider as your pet you should have all the supplies necessary before bringing him home. A safe and enjoyable home will help you have a happy and healthy sugar glider. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need.

Habitat
A properly ventilated cage no smaller than 20″ x 20″ x 30″. Sugar gliders prefer tall cages and always get the biggest cage possible. Bird cages make excellent glider homes.

A nesting box for sleeping. A cloth pouch, birdhouse or hamster house work well.

Bedding made of shredded plain paper, recycled paper bedding, or wood shavings. Primarily to collect waste at the bottom of the cage.

Heavy flat bottom dishes or bowls that attach to the side of the cage for food.

Heavy flat bottom dish or stoppered drinking bottle for water.

Climbing branches. Sugar gliders love to climb.

Bird toys, perches, ladders, a hard bone for chewing, tubing for hiding or exploring. It’s always good to have items that keep your pet entertained.

Food & Supplements
Fresh fruits and vegetables.

A source of protein like cooked meat cut into small pieces, tofu, cottage cheese, or yogurt.

Live insects like mealworms and crickets as well as raw unsalted nuts that can be given as treats.

A multivitamin and calcium with d3 supplement. There are reptile supplements that work well for sugar gliders.

Food & Diet

Your sugar glider’s diet should contain a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables and about 1/4 of its food should have protein. Gliders tend to prefer fruits and vegetables that have a sweet taste. Gliders should not be fed raw sugar, sugar substitutes, candy and never give your glider chocolate. If possible, all fruits and vegetables fed to your glider should be fresh and not canned. Below are some of the items you could feed your pet.

Fruits & Vegetables
Fruits and vegetables you could feed your sugar glider are apples, avocados, bananas, cantaloupe, carrots, sweet corn, figs, grapes, grapefruit, mangoes, oranges, peaches, pears, pineapples, sweet potatoes, and many others.

Protein Foods
Small pieces of cooked lean cuts of meat or poultry without any additional spices or sauces are good sources of protein. Hard boiled eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese, and tofu are also other protein options.

Dry Cat Food or Dog Food
Dry cat food and dog food can be used as a source of protein but should be used sparingly. These foods are not designed for sugar gliders and may not fill the nutritional needs of your pet.

Treats
Sugar Gliders love live insects. Crickets, mealworms, and earthworms are easily attainable insects. Don’t feed your glider insects that have been collected outside where they may have been contaminated with pesticides. Although great sources of protein, insects should only be used as treats due to their high fat content.

Nuts are extremely popular treats with sugar gliders. The nuts should be raw and unsalted and be given out sparingly. Although loved by gliders, nuts are high in fat.

Supplements
Sugar gliders can sometimes be picky eaters. Even with a well balanced diet your pet may be lacking in important vitamins and minerals. Reptile multivitamin and calcium with D3 supplements can help make sure you have a happy healthy pet. Even though sugar gliders aren’t reptiles, the reptile supplements are convenient, affordable, and supply the needed dietary vitamins and minerals.

Water
Even though sugar gliders drink very little and get most of their water from food, fresh water should always be available for your pet. A stoppered water bottle is a great way to keep water available.

courtesy: http://sugarglidercare.org/

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Rabbits
(sample specie, European rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus))

The pet rabbit as we know it today originated from the wild rabbits of Europe and Africa. We began domesticating rabbits in the Middle Ages.

They are fragile animals and are most active in the morning and evening. They prefer to sleep during the day and through the night. Rabbits have different life expectancies depending on the breed and can live as little as 5 years or as long as 15 years.

Rabbits and hares are not the same although they can breed. Hares are generally larger, have longer ears and longer hind legs. Hares are born with a full coat of hair and their eyes open. Rabbits are born hairless and with their eyes closed. Hares hide in plants while rabbits hide in burrows or depressions in the ground. Hares prefer being alone while rabbits enjoy the company of others.

Rabbits as Pets
Rabbits are very tame and not demanding. They can be trained to learn commands and play games even be trained to use a litter box. Rabbits make very little noise so bothering your neighbors will not be a concern. Rabbits love to be handled, like attention, and tend to be active when most people are home. Because of all these attributes they can make an excellent pet.

Care Sheet

What do I need for my pet bunny rabbit?
Now that you have decided on a pet rabbit you should have all supplies necessary before bringing it home. A bunny with a safe home, the correct food, and appropriate furnishings will be a happy and healthy pet. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need.

Cage and Habitat
You will need a cage that is at least four times the size of your rabbit or an outdoor hutch at least 30 x 36 x 20 inches. Avoid wire mesh flooring and don’t use glass cages or aquariums. Always go with the biggest cage possible.

Hay or straw is needed as a nesting area for outside rabbits.

A litter box and litter for indoor rabbits. Paper based litter works best and do not use clumping litter.

A water bottle or water bowl. Water bottles are easier to maintain.

Food bowl for pellets and a feeder for hay.

Your pet rabbit also needs toys and chew toys.

Food & Supplements
Grass hay such as Timothy and alfalfa hay is an important part of your pets diet.

Commercially available rabbit food pellets.

Some occasional treats will always be welcomed by your rabbit.

If you are unsure that your rabbit has a well balanced diet, dietary supplements are a good way to ensure you pet gets all the nutrients he needs.

Other Supplies
Brushes and combs for grooming, especially if you have a long haired bunny.

Food & Diet

To have a happy and healthy pet rabbit you want to make sure he has a nutritious diet. Be sure to include hay, pellets, fresh fruits and vegetables, and treats to add variety and a well balanced diet. Below is a list of foods to keep your bunny well fed.

Hay
Hay is necessary for your rabbit’s diet to stimulate intestinal movement and help wear down the teeth. Offer as much hay as your pet wants to eat. The hay should have equal portions of stems and leaves and be green. Grass hays such as Timothy, orchard, oat, brome, Burmuda and Johnson are excellent choices.

Rabbit Pellets
Commercial pelleted food is available on in many varieties. Pellets that are about 25 percent fiber and a low fat content are best. Rabbits have low fat requirements so their diet needs only to contain 2 percent fat. Smaller pellet sizes are better for young rabbits.

Vegetables
Your rabbit should eat up to 2 cups of vegetables a day. Bunnies will enjoy carrot tops, carrots, broccoli, parsley, chicory, endive, kale, mustard greens, green peppers, cauliflower, cabbage, dandelion greens and dark leafy lettuce.

Treats
Rabbits love sugary foods as treats. Offer only a small amount of these treats a day. Your rabbit will enjoy apple slices, pears, kiwi fruit, melons and strawberries. There are also a wide variety of commercially available bunny treats. Use sugary treats in moderation to prevent obesity and intestinal problems.

Water
Compared to other animals rabbits drink a lot of water so your rabbit should always have fresh water available. When your bunny doesn’t have enough water he will eat less food which creates an unhealthy situation.

Supplements
With a well balanced diet, a dietary supplement isn’t always necessary. But it never hurts to make sure your pet gets everything he needs.

Stool
Rabbits have soft and hard stool and they will eat the soft stool. It may seem gross, but don’t stop your pet from eating his own poo. The soft stool has nutrients that are important to your bunny’s health.

Change
Always introduce new foods or changes in diet slowly. Making changes too rapidly will change the natural flora in your rabbits intestines which can cause bacteria to grow in his intestinal tract. This can be toxic to your pet. Changing his diet slowly over a four to five day period will prevent this.

courtesy: http://petrabbitcare.org/

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Hamsters (eg. specie: Golden Hamster, Mesocricetus auratus)

Hamsters
eg. Golden Hamster (Mesocricetus auratus)

Hamsters are native to Syria and were primarily used for research.  In 1948, Albert Marsh, a highway engineer, introduced them as pets. They are chunky-bodied, thick-furred, short-tailed rodents with cheek pouches and are secretive burrowers and hoarders. Being nocturnal creatures, they usually sleep during the day and play and explore at night.

Hamsters as Pets
Hamsters have no detectable body odor. They are inexpensive to buy and outside of cage cleaning and proper food are relatively maintenance free.  These adorable rodents are subject to very few health problems and diseases. Since they sleep during the day, they are active at night when most people are home. A hamster can be a wonderful family member and an excellent pet.

Hamsters tend to be solitary animals and often do better living alone. Some types, like the Roborovski and Campbell’s, can live in pairs or groups, but it is not necessary. Keeping males and females together is not recommended since they are prolific breeders. Having a couple hamsters is wonderful, but if they breed you may end up with many more than anticipated. If you decide to have more than one, make sure you have a second cage in case they don’t get along.

Care Sheet

What do I need for my pet hamster?
Now that you have decided on a pet hamster you should have all the supplies necessary before bringing your pet home. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need. Remember, hamsters are chewers, wanderers, and burrowers so choose the home accordingly.

Habitat

You will need a cage or aquarium that is at least 15 inches long by 12 inches high for one hamster or two dwarf hamsters. Get the largest size possible. The bigger the cage the happier your pet will be.

Bedding or substrate for the bottom of the cage where your pet can burrow and hide.

A water bottle or water dish. You will have less mess to clean up if you use a stoppered bottle in place of a water dish.

A food dish.

Hide and sleeping areas for your hamster.

Toys such as an exercise wheel, ramps, and tunnels so your pet hamster can exercise and explore.

Food and Supplements

Hamster food, either pellets or mixed seeds and grain.

Fresh food like acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips.

Vitamin, mineral, and calcium supplements.

Treats to add variety to your pet’s diet.

Food & Diet

The easiest way to make sure your hamster’s diet provides everything he needs is to buy the best prepared food you can find. Then supplement its diet with pieces of fresh fruits and veggies, throwing in an occasional mealworm or cricket. A varied diet is as important to hamsters as it is to people.

Pellets
Pellets are a food where the ingredients are ground up, mixed, and formed into little pieces. The requirement to gnaw on pellets and the balanced nutrition of pellets make them a suitable part of your pet’s diet.

Mixed Seeds & Grain
Mixed seeds & grain are just like they sound, a food mixture of seeds and grains. Some mixed foods include a variety of dried fruits, nuts, and seeds. This type of food provides a variety of choices for your hamster to enjoy and is an excellent part of his diet.

Timothy Hay & Alfalfa
Timothy hay, alfalfa or a mix of the two are a nice addition to the diet. In the wild, hamsters are grass eaters and may enjoy nibbling on some hay. Not all will eat it, but it is worth a try.

Fresh Foods
To add some variety and added nutrition there are many fresh foods your companion may like. Try acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips. The key with fresh food is to supply it in small portions since hamsters store away excess food. Rotten food is not something you want in your pet’s cage.

Snacks & Treats
There is an amazing variety of hamster snacks and treats that you can offer a couple times per week. These treats, although very enjoyable to your hamster, are not a well balanced diet so use them sparingly. Most treats are sweetened foods like seeds, nuts, and dried fruits and vegetables that your pet will love. Alternatives to store bought treats are scrambled or hard boiled eggs, dog biscuits, sugar-free cereal, whole wheat bread, and uncooked pasta. You can even feed him mealworms or crickets.

Dietary Supplements
Commercial hamster food is supposed to have all the nutritional requirements necessary for a healthy pet, but supplements are a good way to guarantee a well balanced diet. Dietary supplements are available with vitamins, minerals, and calcium that come in flavors a hamster will enjoy.

courtesy: http://pethamstercare.com/

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Guinea Pigs
Cavia porcellus

Guinea pigs are tail-less rodents that are native to the west coast of South America and since th

e mid-1800’s, laboratories have used them for research. The correct name for guinea pigs is Cavy, pronounced “kay-vee”.

Guinea pigs usually weigh around 3 ounces at birth, around 1-2 pounds full grown, and live for 5-6 years. An adult will measure 8-10 inches from the tip of its nose to the end of its rump. Their hair comes in a wide range of colors and the hair may be long, short or short and curly. Cavies have a very good sense of smell and sensitive hearing. They love to vocalize with squeals, chirps, squeaks, and whistles. Although not known for their intelligence, they do recognize their owners and will seek them out and return affection.

Guinea Pigs as Pets
Guinea pigs are cuddly, comical, and clever. They make wonderful pets for children and can be very social animals. The animals do better in pairs as they prefer company, so unless you have a lot of time to devote to your pet getting at least two is often a good idea. They are not expensive to own and the biggest expense is the initial setting up of housing. Guinea pigs are hardy pets so veterinarian expenses are minimal.

Care Sheet

What do I need for my pet guinea pig?
Now that you have decided on a guinea pig as your pet you should have the cage and all the supplies necessary before bringing him home. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need. Remember, cavies are chewers so choose his home accordingly.

Habitat
You will need a cage with at least 2 square feet of space for each guinea pig being housed in it. Always go with the biggest cage possible for a happy pet. Do not use wire mesh for the cage flooring.

A substrate or bedding for the bottom of the cage. Make sure you avoid wood shavings.

A stoppered or ceramic water bowl. Remember you guinea pig will play in the bowl and soil the water so a bottle may be a better choice.

A hay rack for hanging leafy greens, hay and grass to keep it clean and fresh.

A few wooden chew sticks or blocks plus some toys. Your pet will love toys he can nibble on, climb over, push around and bump with his nose.

A hide area for your pet to spend private time resting and feeling secure.

Food & Supplements
A commercial brand guinea pig food.

Hay and leafy green vegetables for your guinea pig to nibble on.

A vitamin C supplement.

Treats to add variety to your pets diet.

Food & Diet

Guinea pigs love to eat but are very particular about their food preferences. They are strict vegetarians eating plant materials only. They will forage throughout the day and consume large quantities so it is important that they always have grass, hay and food available. Do not be alarmed if you see your pet eating its own feces, this is normal and helps the cavy recycle necessary nutrients and minerals.

Pellets
There are several excellent pelleted guinea pig foods on the market. These foods have all the ingredients necessary for your cavy’s health, but often exclude vitamin C.

Hay
Hay is an important part of your pet’s diet. It helps keep the teeth worn down and satisfies his need to chew. It also provides necessary roughage. You should not feed coarse hay that can injure the soft tissues of the mouth or hay that is moldy or dirty.

Leafy Vegetables & Fruit
There should always be a little bit of leafy vegetables in the feed rack at all times. Guinea pigs don’t enjoy cold vegetables so let them warm to room temperature before feeding them to your pet. As a treat, your pet may enjoy fresh fruit like kiwi fruit, oranges, grapes, strawberries, peaches, apricots and melons.

Supplements
Your guinea pig needs to have vitamin C to be a happy and healthy pet. Not providing this important supplement can be fatal. Luckily there are many supplements available as a liquid or chewable bites or treats.

Water
Guinea pigs drink a lot of water and a dry diet increases the need for water. Always provide more water than you think your pet will need.

Harmful Foods
Not all vegetables are good for your cavy. Avoid spinach, peanuts, beet tops, potatoes, iceberg lettuce, onions, garlic, cabbage and broccoli. Never feed your pet chocolate or candies.

Courtesy: http://petguineapigcare.com/

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Gerbils
(one specie, Meriones unguiculatus, also known as the clawed jird)

Gerbils are mammals that are native to northern China. In 1954 gerbils arrived in the United States to be used in research and quickly won the hearts of lab workers who began taking them home as pets.

Gerbils are about the same size as a small hamster. They weigh between 2 to 4 ounces and are about 4 1/2 inches long. The tail is as long as a gerbil’s body and is covered with fur. The hind legs are very muscular and they have large feet. Gerbils often stand on their haunches when not moving instead of crouching down. They often have a golden coat with white underbelly but gerbils can be a variety of different colors. A gerbil will usually live 3 to 3 1/2 years.

Gerbils As Pets
Gerbils are very intelligent, entertaining animals that love to play. They are active both during the day and at night. They are very social and dependent on other gerbils to feel safe, keep warm, and for companionship. Since they are social animals, keeping them in pairs (or larger groups) is always recommended. Gerbils are easy to care for, take up very little room, and supplying a home and food is relatively inexpensive. A couple pet gerbils in your home can be very fun and enjoyable.

Care Sheet

What do I need for my pet gerbil?
Once you have decided on a gerbil as your pet you should have all the supplies necessary before bringing him home. Having all the items a gerbil will need for his home will help ensure you have a happy and healthy pet. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need. Remember, gerbils are chewers so choose his supplies accordingly.

Habitat
A glass aquarium tank with wire mesh cover, small animal cage, or tube cage like CritterTrail can all make an excellent home for gerbils. You should have at least a ten gallon tank or cage for a pair of gerbils. Bigger is always better for your pets home, so go with the largest size possible.

Bedding for the bottom of the cage.

Tunnels and tubes for playing and exploring.

Play areas with sloping ramps and a climbing branch.

A variety of toys that can be changed periodically.

An exercise wheel.

Cardboard for chewing. Paper towel and toilet paper rolls work very well.

A nesting box and unscented toilet paper for use as nesting material.

Stoppered water bottle.

Heavy ceramic bowl for food.

Food, Treats, and Supplements

Commercial food mixes usually have all the essential nutrients a gerbil needs.

Treats for your gerbil. Fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts and grains, or commercial pet treats.

A vitamin supplement to ensure your pet has a well balanced diet.

Food & Diet

To make sure your pet gerbil is healthy supply him with the most nutritious foods available. Foods include commercial mixes, fruits, vegetables, nuts, grains, and, of course, water. A varied diet will be enjoyed by your pet, but be sure to introduce new foods gradually. Below are some of the many foods you can feed your gerbil.

Food
A commercial food mix is excellent for a gerbil’s primary food. Most should have all the nutritional requirements for a healthy pet.

Oats, millet, wheat, cereal, and dry pasta make a wonderful addition to you pet’s diet. Live mealworms, crickets, nuts, seeds and timothy hay and/or alfalfa can also be given as a food to gerbils. They are also an additional source of protein which is lacking in some pet foods.

Treats
Treats should only be a small part of your gerbil’s diet. There is a wide variety of commercial treats available that will be greatly enjoyed by your pet.

Fresh fruits and vegetables can also be given as treats. Gerbil’s like carrots, celery, peas, cucumbers, string beans, grapes, apples, pears, cooked potato, raisins, bananas, plain popcorn. Avoid spinach, lettuce and citrus fruits since some can be harmful to gerbils. Make sure all fruits and vegetables are washed before feeding them to your gerbil and only feed small portions to prevent leftover food from rotting.

Water
Even though gerbils do not drink a lot of water, they need a steady source of water or can become dehydrated. A small stoppered water bottle is a perfect way to supply your pet with water.

Supplements
Although most foods will have all the nutrients needed for gerbils, some gerbils are picky and will only eat their favorite foods. To ensure a balanced diet, a vitamin and mineral supplement that can be added to a gerbil’s water is an easy solution.

courtesy: http://petgerbils.org/

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Ferrets
Mustela putorius furo

Ferrets are cute, active, playful and entertaining animals. Although very active, they do sleep a lot, as much as 16 hours a day.

Males are larger than females and ferrets are usually 3 to 4 pounds but larger ones can be as heavy as 6 pounds. Many have dark brown fur but they can also be black, gray, tan, or even albino. The average life span is around 7 years although they can live longer.

Ferrets naturally have a strong body odor. The odor is caused by hormone production and anal scent glands. The strong smell from the scent glands is used as a defense mechanism.

Fortunately, pet ferrets do not suffer from these unpleasant odors when they have been spayed or neutered and the scent glands removed. Any lingering odor can be taken care of with regular baths. Most ferrets sold in the United States have already been descented.

Ferrets As Pets
Ferrets make good pets and are happy living alone or with another ferret. They are social animals and often like meeting new people. They are fun, playful, and active.

Much like dogs and cats, they will need annual visits to a veterinarian for vaccinations. They also require regular baths and grooming. Ferrets can even be taught to walk on a leash and can be litter trained.

Ferrets are not pets that can be caged all the time like gerbils, hamsters and mice. Although they can spend a lot of time in a cage, they need the freedom to run, jump, and explore your home everyday. A ferret that is kept exclusively in a cage may become a very unhealthy pet.

Even though most are quite friendly, they are not recommended for young children. If handled roughly, it is possible for a ferret to bite or scratch when frightened by a child’s overzealous affection.

What do I need?
Once you have decided to get an adorable ferret you should have everything he needs before bringing him into your home. Having everything ready makes the transition as stress free as possible. The care sheet below lists all the items needed for your new pet.

Cage 
Your pet will need a cage at least 36″ x 24″ x 24″. This is the minimum size necessary but you should get as big a cage as possible. Ferrets are active and while in the cage you want your pet to have lots of room to play. There are many different types of ferret cages available that offer lots of room to move around.

Soft rugs, carpet or blanket for bedding on the bottom of the cage.

A heavy ceramic food bowl or a bowl that can’t be easily tipped or chewed.

A stoppered water bottle that attaches to the side of the cage.

A sleep area like a hammock, sleep sack or soft tunnel.

Lots of toys to keep your pet entertained while in his cage.

A litter box with a high and low end filled with your preferred type of litter. Litter made from recycled paper is a clean, safe choice.

Food, Treats & Supplements
Dry ferret food that is high in protein should be your pets primary diet. Moist canned food can also be substituted occasionally. There are a variety of commercial pet foods available.

An assortment of treats to add some variety to your pets diet.

Vitamin supplements to ensure your ferret is getting all the nutrients he needs.

Grooming
Ferret shampoo and conditioner to keep your pets coat clean, healthy, and odor free.

Safety
Since your companion will need time outside of his cage, you want to make sure your home is safe for him to run around and explore. Watch for rubber and latex items, sponges, and cleaning supplies. Baby locks are a good way to keep a ferret away from harmful items he may try to eat.

A ferret collar or harness with a small bell attached. Ferrets are sneaky and a bell can make them easier to find.

Food & Diet

Ferrets are sometimes picky eaters so you have to make sure your pet is getting all the nutrition he needs. A high protein diet, combined with various treats and a vitamin supplement will make your ferret a happy and healthy pet. Below are various foods that you can feed your companion.

Food
Ferrets are carnivores and therefor require a diet that is high in protein. There are many commercial pet foods available designed specifically for ferrets.

You can find dry food and moist canned food chock full of the protein he needs. Dry food is crunchy and helps your pet’s gums and teeth and will be his primary diet. Moist ferret food can help with hairballs, but should only be given occasionally.

Ferrets can sometimes be picky eaters. Mixing multiple foods together can often solve this problem and may get him to like all the different types. Plus, having various types of food your pet enjoys makes sure you can always find something he will eat. You don’t want him to go hungry because a store was out of his favorite pet food and he won’t eat a different brand.

Ferrets have small digestive tracts and therefor eat frequent small meals every few hours. In order to fulfill these frequent meals, dry food should be available at all times.

Ferrets also drink when they eat, so water should always be available. Keeping the food and stoppered water bottle close together will make your furry friend happy.

Treats
Variety is the spice of life and this applies to your ferret as well. There are lots of different commercial pet treats available that he will greatly enjoy. You can also give cooked boneless chicken and meats as treats as well as meaty baby food. Chocolate, dairy products, sugary and salty foods should be avoided.

Supplements
Vitamin supplements make a great addition to a ferret’s diet. Even though a well balanced diet should have everything he needs, you never know what exactly he is eating.

If you have an overly picky pet, he could just be eating his favorite pieces of food and missing out on important nutrients. A supplement makes sure your pet gets all the important vitamins and nutrients.

courtesy: http://petferretcare.net/

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Chinchillas ( Chinchilla chinchilla, Chinchilla lanigera)

Chinchillas

Two species: long-tailed chinchilla (Chinchilla lanigera) short-tailed chinchilla (Chinchilla chinchilla)

Chinchillas are native to Chile and Peru. In the wild they live in groups and make their home in burrows and natural outcroppings and crevices.

These small, cute rodents have plush, soft coats of fur. They weigh around 1 to 1.5 pounds and can be up to a foot long. They have rounded ears and eyes on either side of a broad head. Their fur is very dense, soft, and pleasant to touch. The fur is often gray, but can be beige, tan, black or white. These beautiful rodents can live as long as 20 years.

Chinchillas as Pets
Chinchillas can make wonderful pets for the right family. They are smart, inquisitive, and loving animals. They are active, vocal, and entertaining to watch. Since they can live up to 20 years they can be long time companions.

They are not recommended for young children. Children are often overzealous with affection and could frighten or injure a chinchilla. A chinchilla could possibly bite a child out of fear. Although loving animals, they do require gentle and careful handling.

These adorable creatures are social animals and need a lot of interaction. A lone chinchilla requires a great deal of attention and can become very attached to its owner. If you are unable to devote that much time to your pet, it is better to have two chinchillas than one lonely unhappy pet. Two chinchillas can play and interact and not be completely dependent on their owner.

Care Sheet

What do I need for my chinchilla?
Once you have decided to add a chinchilla to your family, you want to make sure he is happy, healthy, and safe. To do this you need to have everything necessary for your pets well being. Below is a list of everything your pet will need for his home, diet, and health.

Cage & Habitat
A chew proof cage at least 16″ x 20″ x 16″ is the minimum size for one chinchilla. You should get the biggest cage possible so your pet has lots of room to sleep, play, and move around.

Pelleted or shredded paper bedding material.

A stoppered water bottle, food bowl or feeder, and a hay rack.

Hide areas and tunnels for playing and sleeping.

A large exercise wheel with a solid floor.

Dust bin and dusting powder for bathing.

A variety of chew proof toys to keep your pet entertained.

Untreated wooden toys for chewing and wearing down a chinchilla’s ever-growing teeth.

Food & Treats

Commercial pellet food for chinchillas.

Hay, Timothy or alfalfa hay are popular choices.

Various treats including commercial pet treats, nuts, seeds, and dried fruits.

Supplements

A salt block as a mineral supplement.

A vitamin C supplement. There is liquid vitamin C that can be easily added to a water bottle.

Courtesy: http://chinchillacare.org/

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Pet Rats
Rattus norvegicus

Rats are one of the smartest of over 1700 rodents and have been kept as pets for hundreds of years. They have long bodies, long tails with little or no hair, long pointed noses and are larger than mice. They have poor eyesight but have excellent hearing and a strong sense of smell.

Even though many consider rats dirty animals, they are actually very clean and groom themselves constantly. They are cautious of new things, very intelligent and learn from experience. With enough social interaction rats can share a bond with their owner and make great pets.

Rats As Pets

Rats make wonderful pets. They are inexpensive, love to be held and played with, quiet, and don’t require a lot of space. They are very social and do better if kept in pairs. Rats love children, are very clean, intelligent and loyal pets.

Care Sheet

What do I need for my pet rat?
Now that you have decided on a rat as a pet you should have all supplies necessary before bringing him home. Having the right supplies is the best way to have a happy healthy pet. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need.

Cage & Habitat
You will need a properly ventilated, chew proof cage with a solid floor that is at least 24″ x 12″ x 12″. Remember, a bigger cage is always better when it comes to your pet’s home.

Bedding or substrate for the bottom of the cage. You want to avoid cedar and pine shavings.

A stoppered chew proof water bottle that attaches to the side of the cage.

A food dish that can be secured to the cage or a dish that is heavy enough to not be easily tipped over.

An exercise wheel. Make sure you get one large enough for your rat.

Rat, cat, or bird toys and untreated wood for chewing. Get extra toys if you pet’s home is an aquarium instead of a cage.

Paper towels, paper napkins, hay, or straw for nesting.

Food & Supplements
Commercial rat food.

Fresh vegetables, fruit, and occasional table scraps.

Treats to add variety to your rats diet and for use in training.

A supplement to make sure your pet gets all the vitamins he needs.

Food & Diet

Rats love to eat and will often eat, not because they are hungry, but just because they enjoy it. Rats are omnivores meaning they will eat both plants and animals so there is a wide variety of foods that you can feed your pet. Below are some of the items you can feed your rat.

Rat Food
There are many commercially available rat foods that will contain almost everything your pet rat will need. Rat food can contain a mix of pellets, fruits, nuts, vegetables, seeds, and grains. The drawback is that your rat may pick out his favorite pieces and not receive a well balanced diet.

Fresh Food
You should also feed your pet rat fresh healthy foods like fruits and vegetables. You can try sweet potatoes, tomatoes, apples, corn, broccoli and many others.

Table Scraps
Rats love table scraps but you must feed them in moderation. Rats can not burp or vomit so avoid gassy foods. Your pet will eat almost anything and will enjoy being allowed to pick through different types of food.

A good rule to follow is if it is good for you, it’s probably good for your rat. And if it is bad for you, it’s probably bad for your rat.

Treats
Rats consider all foods a treat and will appreciate some more than others. Use those special treats for training or special occasions. There are many rat treats available or you can use different foods from around the home.

Rats have a very poor gag reflex so choking can be a problem and you will want to avoid certain foods. Avoid feeding sticky foods such as taffy, peanut butter, caramel, rolled fruit snacks and jelly beans. You should also moderate sugary snacks to prevent your rat from becoming fat.

Vitamins & Supplements
Rats usually get all their vitamins from their diet but they can be susceptible to vitamin deficiencies. Commercial vitamin supplements that go in the water bottle are available.

Water
Rats drink a lot of water and should have fresh water available at all times. A stoppered water bottle does a wonderful job of keeping water available.

Cage & Habitat

Your pet rats need a home that is safe, secure, and provides places to exercise, eat, and sleep. A proper home is a great way to help make sure your pet lives a long healthy life.

Wire Cage
A wire cage makes an excellent home due to good air circulation and the fact that rats love to climb. The cage should be at least 24″ x 12″ x 12″, but bigger is always better so go with the largest cage possible.

Since rats are chewers the cage you select should be chew proof, have no sharp edges and have secure doors. The wire openings should be no larger than 1/2″ to prevent him from escaping or getting a leg stuck. The floor of the cage should be solid and not wire mesh in order to prevent foot injury.

Aquarium
Aquariums can also make good homes for rats. They will let you view your pet, prevent spillage of bedding and are easy to clean. With tanks, a screened top that fits securely is needed to prevent escape.

Air circulation is poor in these type of homes so care must be taken to prevent your rat from overheating. If using an aquarium you will also need to provide extra toys to satisfy your pet’s urge to climb.

Bedding & Substrate
You should provide enough bedding in the bottom of the cage to completely cover the bottom and add a layer of cushioning. Your pet will rearrange the bedding and other items in his cage and possibly make nests out of the bedding.

There are many commercial beddings and substrates from which to choose. Cedar and pine shavings should be avoided. Besides bedding your rat will love other materials for making nests. Paper towels, napkins, hay, straw and grasses are good materials for your pet rat to shred and use.

Water Bottle
You will need a source of water for your pet. Stoppered water bottles that attach to the side of the cage will prevent water spillage in the cage. Remember, your pet rat is a chewer so you will need a chew proof bottle or a bottle with a chew guard.

Food Bowl
A pet rat will easily climb on and tip over his food bowl. A dish that attaches to the sides of a wire cage or weighted bowl can help prevent this.

Exercise Wheel
Some rats, but not all, enjoy exercise wheels. Be sure to get a large wheel that is big enough for your rat’s size. Do not put your rat in an acrylic exercise ball. Your pet could overheat due to panic and stress.

Toys
Rats love to play. Providing them with bird, cat or rat toys, PVC pipe, empty toilet paper and paper towel tubes and untreated, unpainted wood for chewing will give your pet hours of entertainment.

Cleaning
Your pet rat’s cage should be cleaned at least once a week and leftover food that could spoil should be removed daily. For cleaning, replace the bedding, wash the water bottle, food dish, dirty toys, and the cage bottom with soapy water. Make sure everything is dry before returning items to the cage.

Courtesy: http://petratcare.org/

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